The Tasting Panel magazine

Aug 09

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4 / the tasting panel / august 2009 Don't look now, but we may be heading into a serious confrontation with Brazil. Our large friend in South America is justifiably proud of its native spirit, cachaça (kah-SHASS–ah), the third most- consumed distillate in the world (only vodka and Korean soju are ahead in volume). Unfortunately our stodgy government refuses to recognize cachaça as a uniquely distinctive product, despite a huge body of evidence to the contrary. No, the boneheads in Washington insist upon call- ing it "Brazilian rum." The only commonality between cachaça and rum is that they are both a derivative of sugar. But while rum is usually made from molasses, cachaça is made from fresh sugar- cane juice. And cachaça doesn't taste anything like rum; it's lighter and more elegant, and the best ones have lovely exotic flavors that come from Brazilian wood. In fact, there are rums made in Brazil (Oronoco is one), but they are dra- matically different from cachaça. No mixologist worth his salt would make a Caipirinha with rum. What is it that U.S. government regulators have against cachaça? Why don't they demand that scotch be called "Scottish bourbon" or soju "Korean vodka." Why have they singled out this important Brazilian cultural icon as a target for their discriminatory rulings? This idiocy could lead to a serious confrontation between the United States and Brazil. Right now, the Brazilians are being patient and biding their time, but that won't always be the case. First their anger will show itself subtly—a huge tax on Americans seeking plastic surgery in Rio, a ban on exportation of bossa nova records—but soon thereafter it will escalate into full- fledged hostilities. When the Brazilian armada sails into New York harbor, don't say I didn't warn you. From the Editor Booze Wars

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