Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1787
S alvage-yard doors, lamps, chairs and tables have been miraculously trans- formed into Technicolor props that speak the language of Mexico Restaurante y Barra, Larry Nicola's brand new—and muy caliente— dining spot in West Hollywood, California. Nicola is well-known for his Beverly Hills celebrity romper room, Nic's Martini Lounge, which features the Vod Box—a temperature- controlled 28-degree haven for tasting chilled vodka, sans mixes. Now, his focus—along with freshly made taquitos, guacamole, carnitas and the like— is tequila. A former chef-consultant for Palmilla and Querencia in Cabo San Lucas, Nicola also started a farm in the mountains of Mexico back in the early 1990s, where he grew inspi- ration for his kitchen's fare. "Actually, my true inspiration for this restaurant is the sign," says Nicola, pointing to the larger-than-life red MEXICO, a 1940s neon relic that heralds a promise of authen- ticity to customers on the busy corner of La Cienega and Santa Monica Boulevards. With that motivational starting point, Nicola and his team gathered carved wood doors, chairs and other mismatched items and painted them purples, pinks and turquoises, adding silver emblems to dress the salvage up for south-of-the-border impact. "Soon, we'll be surrounded by doors," Nicola tells THE TASTING PANEL, referring to the ornately hand-carved hacienda-style gates that open onto Mexico's outside patio. It is also his nod to The Doors, who are still spiritually con- nected to this location. While the restroom features a flower- framed memorial to The Doors' lead singer, Jim Morrison, a religious shrine in the pas- sageway pays reverence to Santo Miguel, the guardian of business. Noting the packed house, from patio to barra, we must acknowledge that this place is surely blessed with a great concept. —Meridith May The Santa Monica Boulevard studio where Jim Morrison recorded "L.A. Woman" in the late '60s is now Larry Nicola's resounding food-and- drink playland Larry Nicola's latest venture, Mexico, is so south-of-the-border. These Doors Lead to Mexico 34 / the tasting panel / august 2009