Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1787
30 / the tasting panel / august 2009 M adeira has a rich history in the U.S. as the wine of our Founding Fathers. Famous for its quality and durability, it was one of the few wines to survive the rigorous trip to the colonies. Some claim the discovery that the wine improved in the heat of ships' holds led to the process of heating the wine during production. A group of trade and media were able to share madeira and its history this June in San Fran- cisco. Five producers from the tiny Atlantic island came to celebrate the anniversary of our Declaration of Independence and the wine, madeira, that toasted its signing. Producers shared their vinhos (wine), from dry (Sercial) to sweet (Malmsey), and variants in between. Superstar chef Gary Danko pre- pared a dazzling five-course lun- cheon matching his exquisite cuisine with ten madeiras ranging from an elegantly dry 10-year-old Sercial by Justino Henriques, to a luscious and complex Special Reserve Bual from Barbeito, and finishing with a stunning 1978 Broadbent Bual. THE TASTING PANEL's Editor in Chief, Anthony Dias Blue, served as mod- erator for the lunch. Later, Blue Lifestyle hosted a special "After Hours Tasting" at Hotel Vitale in San Francisco. From 8 p.m. until midnight, producers and their importers poured 39 wines, ranging from young (Justino's Fine Dry was a stand-out) to old (Vinhos Barbeito 1957 Boal). Pereira D'Oliveira provided an extensive selection that included a lightly bitter 1968 Boal and a 1966 Verdelho. Justino Henriques shared a table of offerings with their importer, Broadbent Selections; excellent wines from both the Justino's and Broadbent lines were available. Bartholomew Broadbent, a luminary in the madeira world, attended. Madeira Wine Company poured their Blandy's and Cossart lines, including a wonderful 1976 Blandy's Terrantez. Terrantez, the rarest and least-produced madeira varietal, is made from a white wine grape of the same name that is almost extinct. Henriques & Henriques and Pereira D'Oliveira completed the line-up. Dark bottles (madeira is often bottled in near-black bottles painted with white stencils), dark wines and dark chocolate tartlets filled the memorable evening. When tasters finally headed into the dark night, none regretted staying up late for this distinct evening event. Rare madeiras await tasting. Event Wrap-Up by Ben Narasin / photos by Allison Levine A Day and Night of Madeira Trade and media share special wines in San Francisco Anthony Dias Blue (left) with Gilles de Chambure, Director of Wine Educa- tion at Meadowood Napa Valley, and Chef Gary Danko.