The Tasting Panel magazine

July 2009

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lia's leading Shiraz producers. Then there is Orlando Wines, the fi rst commercial winery in South Australia's fa- mous Barossa Valley. They, in turn, produce the iconic Jacob's Creek. It was on the banks of this scenic waterway (recently restored by the winery to its natural beauty) that Bavar- ian immigrant Johann Gramp planted his fi rst vineyards in 1847. Later, he created the Orlando brand near what has become the town of Rowland Flats (Orlando is the Ger- man version of Rowland, and not, as many have assumed, Spanish in origin). Together, these three labels offer wines that have not only survived, but prospered in harsh natural and economic climates. Per- nod Ricard's success in Australia has been achieved by creating a range of dramatically varying styles and prices, from the remark- ably affordable yet fl avorful varietals of the Jacob's Creek Classic range and Wyndham Estate's fl agship Bin 555 series, to the ele- gant black-currant velvet of the 2001 Johann Shiraz Cabernet. In addition, new offerings are aimed at attracting a larger share of both beginning and experienced wine drinkers; this helps get more of these award-winning wines onto dealers' shelves, as well as into wine bars and onto by-the glass menus. Two note- worthy examples are Jacob's Creek Shiraz- Rosé, highlighting the winery's increased focus on rosé, and their recent introduction of non-traditional varietals such as Tempra- nillo, Viognier and Sangiovese into their blends. This is exemplifi ed by the entry-level Three Vines label, just released in the 2007 vintage. The lemony-light Semillon-Sauvi- gnon Blanc-Viognier, the fl oral yet fl inty Shi- raz-Grenache-Sangiovese and the semi-dry, dusty plums of Shiraz-Cabernet-Tempranillo are all geared towards lighter styles and food pairings such as chicken, fi sh and lamb. At the opposite end of the scale is the Jacob's Creek Heritage Collection, consist- ing of the bold voluptuous Johann Shiraz Cabernet (sourced from vines up to 90 years old), St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon (using fruit solely from the famed terra rosa soil of Coonawarra), the Barossa's limited-edition Centenary Hill Shiraz (bottle-aged for fi ve to six years before release), the light, white rose petals of Reeves Point Chardonnay (older vintages have proven this wine ages exceptionally well), and the crisp Stein- garten Riesling, with fruit from the rocky, east-facing outcrop of the Western Barossa located less than two miles from Gramp's original vineyards (appropriately, Steingar- ten means "Garden of Stones"). From the easy-drinking, food-friendly Ja- cob's Creek 2008 Chardonnay, to the elusive and collectable Wyndham Estate 2005 Black Cluster Shiraz—only bottled in vintage years from grapes grown on the site where George Wyndam planted his fi rst vineyards—these wineries have preserved the vast variety of Australia's terroir while still maintaining each label's individual style. Pernod Ricard has indeed proven that, when it comes to Down Under, bigger is better. On Mengler's Hill Look- out, above the fertile fl ats of the Barossa Valley, these fi ve wines constitute Jacob's Creek's new super-pre- mium Heritage Collec- tion. All fi ve varietals have the boldness and individuality to go with medium strength pre- mium cigars. Some of these limited production wines are just now coming into the U.S. Two chilled glasses of the 2007 Steingarten Riesling overlook the Barossa Valley vine- yards where the grapes are grown. july 2009 / the tasting panel / 57

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