Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1399
54 / the tasting panel / july 2009 C hef Jean Joho could be brash and arrogant and nobody would blame him. He's been heralded as one of the country's top chefs, receiving awards such as Best American Chef: Midwest from the James Beard Foundation, and his Chi- cago restaurant Everest was nominated for Best Outstanding Restaurant by the same organization. But in spite of a keen restau- rant business sense that can only be learned through grit and years over a hot stove, Joho remains a kind, soft-spoken man with a ready smile. In this exclusive interview, the French- born proprietor of Everest and Brasserie Jo in Chicago and Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas, talks about the restaurant business. THE TASTING PANEL: You grew up in one of the best white wine regions in the world—Alsace, France. T alk about your background and what it means to you. JEAN JOHO: For me, Alsace was good to know the soil, but also to know the different grapes. W e have all these white grapes and talk about mostly whites, but we have reds as well. Because of this variety , growing up was a great opportunity to match wine with food. It was fun. TP: You worked throughout Europe and absolutely learned the Old W orld regions. When did American wines begin to appeal to you? JJ: I tasted my fi rst Ameri- can wine in 1972. When you're looking where they are today compared to the '60s, you have some wonderful winemaking in California. The evolution of California wine is similar to the Las V egas restaurant scene. In Vegas, 20 years ago, there was nothing here. It's since exploded. TP: Speaking of Vegas restaurants, you have three sommeliers at your Eiffel Tower restaurant. What do you look for in a sommelier? JJ: A lousy sommelier will make the cus- tomer feel like the sommelier knows more than him. I like a sommelier who is very approachable, who works with the customer for what he' s looking for. He can sell a low- end wine or high-end bottles, but they have to know the food and be familiar with the customers. TP: How do your cocktails sell in Eiffel? JJ: W e defi nitely sell a lot. When you talk about Vegas, people have more cocktails. Our Eiffel Tower Affair, made with wine, is our best-seller. TP: What are some trends you're seeing in wine? JJ: The big trend is that the people want to know more about wine. They are starting to have the wine cellar and taste more from dif- ferent grapes. Pinot Noir was so trendy. And now it is Malbec, mostly from Argentina. TP: What about food trends? JJ: I never follow food trends. I always serve what is right for the customer in my restaurant and what I eat myself. There are Las Vegas A Towering Master Jean Joho talks wine and food at his Eiff el Tower restaurant on The Strip story and photos by Fred Minnick No food trends: Perfectly cooked rack of lamb. Chef Jean Joho. I never follow food trends. I always serve what is right for the customer."