Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1399
36 / the tasting panel / july 2009 Events A Pretty GoodYear T he official weekend kickoff was the Fri- day barrel tasting featuring 120 special, unreleased barrels of great Napa wines, sampled and bid on by 2,500 bidders. The af- ternoon's top bid was for Shafer 2005 Hillside Select, which sold its barrel (a ten-case lot) for $45,000. A total of $1.1 million was realized at the barrel tast- ing. This event was held at the To-Kalon cellar of the Robert Mondavi Winery. Both Mondavi brothers, Tim and Michael, although estranged from each other, were in attendance. On Friday evening, lav- ish, intimate dinners were held at various wineries throughout the valley. I was lucky enough to be invited to Bond by Debo- rah and Bill Harlan. This extraordinary estate has as its goal production of six grand cru–quality wines from various meticulously- farmed small vineyards. At this point, 2005 vintages are available from four vine- yards: Melbury, St. Eden, Vecina and Pluribus, each priced at $275 a bottle. They were poured at dinner, along with Laflaive 2002 Bâtard-Montrachet. The dinner was prepared by talented Marc Canera of Hearth and Insieme in New York, ably assisted by his outspoken wine guy, Paul Greico. It was a perfect evening. Saturday began with lovely al fresco lun- cheons at various Napa wineries. I drew Shafer, in the Stags Leap District, where both 2000 and 2004 Hillside Select Cabernets were poured with grilled beef. Yum. At five o'clock, following an elite Meado- wood Resort cocktail party that included San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom, Gordon Getty and other luminaries, we descended to the lawn and large tent where the auction was to take place. Things got underway slowly as auctioneer Fritz Hatton used his consider- able energy to excite the crowd. The first lot, a Napa Valley Vintners' lot that included 135 signed magnums of wine, a meal and a photo shoot, went for $50,000; in previous years it would have brought well more than $100,000. The bidding continued to be rather tepid. It wasn't until Lot 20, the Colgin Cellars offer- ing, that a bid finally exceeded $100,000 (seven bottles and a French Laundry dinner brought $120,000). The first lot to top $200,000 was Lot 32, the Staglin Family and Hyde de Villaine families package, which included 10 cases of wine and a business-class trip to Burgundy loaded with Michelin-starred meals. It brought $230,000. Even Screaming Eagle brought only $80,000. But just when it looked like the auction would limp to a close, along came number 40, the second to last lot. Presented by new Napa power Piero Antinori, this offering included four double magnums of Antinori's new Antica Cabernet plus a business-class trip to Tuscany, including feasts, winery visits and some serious spa treatments. Bidders awoke and pounded the tables. When the dust settled, the lot had brought $400,000. But two other bidders wanted the lot as well, so a deal was struck: all three bidders were given an identical package, thanks to Piero Antinori's generosity. Each one brought $380,000. This large transaction swelled the take to over $5.7 million—including the barrel auc- tion. Less than last year's $10.35 million, but an extremely respectable figure. It was, after all, a pretty good year. Auction Napa Valley raises more than $5.7 million in its 29th running by Anthony Dias Blue PHOTO: JASON TINACCI/ NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS