Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1333810
Winter 2021 The Costume Designer 29 off. It could become a vest. Turn it backward, it becomes a dress." Thursday morning starts with their department meeting, when they figure out who will tackle what. Broecker generally handles the host and the women, while Justian handles the men. They have two assistant designers, a shopper, two production assistants, and a film unit, headed by Jill Bream. In addition, Justian says, "Our wardrobe department and our shop are full of magi- cians that can turn things over so quickly, like the Kamala suit. Without them, I don't know how we would do what we do." Thanks to COVID, Thursday morning is also when Broecker first gets to interact with the host, fitting an average of 25 costumes, and doing a promotional photo shoot. Simultaneously, the film unit—with less than 24 hours of preparation—kicks into action. As Justian notes, "Our production time is not even three days. It's really two, with Saturday being the fix-it day, because we have to have costumes ready for rehearsal starting at one o'clock in the afternoon. So if it's not there on Friday night, we already know we're in emergency mode." In this time frame, they prepare for roughly two hours' worth of material, knowing full well that 25 min- utes of it will be cut before the show airs. "Part of the process," Justian explains, "is not to become attached to what makes air and what doesn't, because if you start playing that guessing game, oftentimes you're wrong. You can't play favorites thinking, 'Oh, this will never make air,' because the minute you start thinking that way, you've jinxed yourself." The COVID pandemic has added to their existing challenges, just as it has affected other productions. Favorite resources have shuttered: specialty boutiques, vintage shops, and old mainstays like JCPenney. Justian notes, "Resources are closing everywhere," adding, "we've become a little more resourceful about branching out from Manhattan." Broecker particularly misses the inspiration gained by wandering the aisles. "You can go into the store thinking one way, and your mind switches when you're able to see it and touch it. A lot of times, that's how I would walk through a department store, touching everything, because shopping is tactile." Online shopping can be tricky in their timeframe, and they also face challenges unique to New York City. "A lot of ship- ping has had to go to my apartment building because it can be delivered there faster than it can at 30 Rock," says Broecker. Photo: Will Heath/NBC Heidi Gardner, Cecily Strong, Robert De Niro, Beck Bennett, Kate McKinnon, Alec Baldwin, Mikey Day, Alex Moffat, Kenan Thompson, Ego Nwodim, Ben Stiller, Aidy Bryant