The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2013

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Iván Gómez Veiga, General Director, HGA Bodegas y Viñedos de Altura, with General Supervisor Claudia Ponce R. and CEO Modes C. Pedrido of importer Wine from Galicia. crianza you get so much more for your money." Mid-priced bottles are doing well, too, said Deutsch, noting sales are solid between $14 and $19.99, with less price resistance than a year ago. Just as the thirst for Spanish wine grows, so does the hunger on behalf of Spanish wineries to get into the U.S. market—in part because Spain's own domestic market has all but dried up. And with American drinkers more interested in boutique producers, many of Spain's small wineries are seeing an opportunity to shine. Nearly 40 producers representing 80 brands set up in New York, and 31 attended the San Francisco event. All 29 regions were represented. From Galicia, a region commanding new interest, Bodegas y Viñedos de Altura, attended for the first time, pouring awardwinning wines from the Rías Biaxas and Ribeira Sacra D.O.s., where the ancient Romans planted vineyards and where, today, Celtic mythology is still palpable. That particular history is reflected in the labels, says the winery's general supervisor, Claudia Ponce R., and it's the story they tell to build interest in the wines. "The label tells the story of blood, sweat and tears," she says, referring Export Manager Ingrid to the heroics not only of Teixidor Bech with cavas Roman ancestors, but of from Familia Oliveda. viticulturists who tend the challenging terraces of the rugged landscapes. The oldest vines are up to 60 years old. The team has high hopes for its signature wine, Altos de Torona, a white blend from Rías Baixas (85% Albariño, 10% Caino and 5% Loureira), and two single-varietals: Albanta, a 100% Albariño, and Regina Viarum, a 100% Mencía, the latter a much-improved-upon variety now frequently cultivated as old hillside vines on schist Albanta, a 100% soils. (See Meridith May's review Albariño from Rías of the Regina Expresión on page Biaxas, is produced by 76. —Ed.) Bodegas y Viñedos de The wines have won accolades Altura, and imported in international wine competitions, by Wines from Galicia. and owner Iván Gómez Veiga says he hopes to leverage that in the states. The winery has distribution in select western markets, and seeks entry into the East Coast. "I am building the empire," he says. He should meet with success if trends continue. "Spanish wine remains strong in Boston, New York and Washington," says Deutsch. "[And] increasingly we are seeing interest from markets that have been resistant—Wisconsin, Michigan, Vermont to name a few." Regina Viarum is a Other trends are also evident. 100% Mencía from the Expect to see more Garnacha from Ribeira Sacra D.O. in Aragón; Ribera del Duero continGalicia. Imported by ues to provide solid competition Wine from Galicia. with Rioja at mid and high-end price points; and rosado from Navarra is becoming an alternative to rosé from Provence. Cava, too, has also seen solid growth, and at the showcase, sparkling wines from Familia Oliveda attracted a lot of attention. While the sparklers all are made in the traditional méthode champenoise, the more Spanish styles are made from Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada grapes. Oliveda, 16 km from the French border, also produces cava in a French style made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, showing a crisper acidity. Oliveda's Export Manager, Ingrid Teixidor Bech, says having both offerings helps people transition from a French with which they might be familiar to a cava: "Cava is rising because it's comparable to champagne, but at a lower price." She expects U.S. suggested retail prices to range from $10 to $20. Naelappa calls the attention to cava "great news," both for producers and consumers. "It is one of the underrepresented [wines] and should be every bit as strong as Prosecco for quality, value and what it represents as a lifestyle product." june 2013  /  the tasting panel  /  155 TP0613_120-156.indd 155 5/23/13 4:56 PM

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