Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/133302
Rodney Strong Vineyards Is Still Sonoma at Its Finest For more than 50 years Rodney Strong Vineyards has produced classic Sonoma wines, their emphasis on finesse derived directly from coolerclimate, estate-grown coastal vineyards. A perfect summer sipper is the lively, gunflinty, medium-bodied Rodney Strong 2012 Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc, Northern Sonoma ($17), with its clarity of melony/grassy varietal fruit definition enhanced by just 10% neutral barrel–fermentation (the rest in stainless steel). The Rodney Strong 2011 Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay ($22) is 95% French oak barrel–fermented, with the addition of 100% malolactic fermentation adding more viscous qualities to a still-brightly defined, moderated weighted medium-full body. In 1962, winery founder Rodney D. Strong was the first to plant Chardonnay in the Chalk Hill area, which was granted AVA status in 1983. "Where is summer, the unimaginable Zero summer?" wrote T. S. Eliot. Rising temperatures call for well chilled, thirst quenching wines—especially white wines. You might have heard that there is a new generation of wine drinkers, collectively called Millennials, who have a slightly different taste in wine. But don't believe everything you hear: It isn't really all about dumbed down, cartoon labels. Millennials may be young, but they're not stupid. Many of them have an actual, differentiating sensory criteria: they want white wines that are less overtly fruity, markedly drier, a little lighter in alcohol, outwardly tart, somewhat minerally or downright earthy in the taste and more restrained in oak. Some (unfortunately, not all) wineries and importers have been "getting it," and the overwhelmingly positive response has surprised even them. Kendall-Jackson, for instance, has done a total makeover with the Kendall-Jackson 2011 AVANT Chardonnay, California ($15), a crisp, moderate alcohol, breezy, floral style of Chardonnay fashioned from neutal oak and stainless steel fermentions—a significant departure from the fat, buttery, tutti-frutti style long associated with the K-J brand. Meanwhile, other California wineries have backed off significantly on buttery oak and high alcohol sensations in their Chardonnay, while still delivering seriously rich styles: the crispy-creamy Cakebread 2011, Napa Valley ($36), the limestone/ vanillin apple scented Clos du Val 2011, Carneros ($28), the tropical-toned Wrath 2012 Ex Anima, Monterey ($23) and the exquisitely delicate, multi-layered VML 2011 Limited Release, Russian River Valley ($35) are all perfect examples of this movement towards restraint. American Chardonnay can be cool! Changing tastes are also why imports are exploding up the charts. 148 / the tasting panel / june 2013 TP0613_120-156.indd 148 5/23/13 4:56 PM