Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/133302
PHOTOS: FRED MINNICK Sommelier Jason Restivo and Bartender Sabina Cushing, The Olde Pink House Jason Restivo & Sabina Cushing. Speaking of big fish in a small pond, Jason Restivo is Savannah's highest-ranking sommelier on track to earn his Master Sommelier certification. A former Auberge Resorts sommelier in California, Restivo moved to Savannah to buy a house and live comfortably. But at The Old Pink House—one of Savannah's top restaurants, adjacent to the celebrated Planter's Inn— he's also keeping his wine cellar, housed in a former bank vault in the 18th century mansion, rotating with a $22,000 inventory of fun and approachable wine, such as Austrian Rieslings and Georgian Chardonnays. The Olde Pink House seats 500 a night, and Restivo is selling roughly $60,000 a week in wine. If there's a bigger believer in Savannah, it's hard to find one more optimistic than Restivo. "I really think we can become as quirky as Portland or Austin in the next four to six years," he says. Bartender Sabina Cushing has worked at some prestigious bars, including the Four Seasons in San Francisco and Pebble Beach. Cushing says the Savannah clientele is quite different from that in California. There's little appreciation (yet) in Savannah for housemade bitters or barrel-aged cocktails, Cushing says: "You can't get too fancy for your britches." This is not where the tourists go. A former Prohibition-era bank still riddled with bullet holes, Local 11ten (named for its address on Bull St.) specializes in farm-to-table food and slightly altered classic cocktails. The Sidecar is made with a spicy blood orange liqueur instead of triple sec; the house Manhattan features Wathen's bourbon, Cocchi Americano apertif, triple sec and peach bitters. "When we first opened, classic cocktails and pairing food with drink was our main beverage strategy," says General Manager General Manager Dustin Porche Dustin Porche. (left) and Mixologist/Sommelier Porche comes Ryan Hall at Local 11ten. from a long line of New Orleans restaurant operators, which is why the Sazerac cocktail was the first drink on the menu. Between Porche and Bartender/Sommelier Ryan Hall, Local 11ten targets the local business clientele, who appreciate few tourists crowding tables with gift bags and travel brochures. This locals-only strategy is an example of how to stand out in a tourist town. "Tourists come here, but it's only after they ask a local where to go off the beaten path," Porche says. When Garren Gore made it to the finals of the national Woodford Reserve Manhattan Experience in January, Gore competed against big city names. His East of the Hudson cocktail won the "Audience's Favorite" award and put him on the national map. Back at Andaz Savannah's posh lobby bar, Gore runs a hotel beverage program that is artisanal-centric. His well Garren Gore at the vodka, Mississippi-made Andaz Savannah's lobby Cathead Vodka, and bar with an artisanal Colorado's Leopold Bros Leopold Bros whiskey. Rye whiskey both out-sell the bigger names. Despite Savannah's cocktail reputation as "Slowvanna," Gore is taking a huge risk in making his own bitters and starting a barrel-aged cocktail program. He's also trying to buck the Georgia notion that Savannah is far behind larger Atlanta for beverage inspiration. He's flexing his award-winning bartender muscle and trying to open distribution channels in the small city so that they're not five years behind similar cities. "It may take us more time, but when we do something, we do it right," Gore says. PHOTO: FRED MINNICK Garren Gore, Beverage Director, Andaz Savannah PHOTO: FRED MINNICK Mixologist/Sommelier Ryan Hall and General Manager Dustin Porche, Local 11ten june 2013 / the tasting panel / 113 TP0613_080-119.indd 113 5/23/13 5:31 PM