Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/12827
NEXT-GENERATION WinemAKeRS A Rhôniste on California’s Central Coast: Gianni Abate of Morgan Winery. Joaquin Valley with dreams of becoming a pharmacist. But after graduating from the University of the Pacific, it took less than two years for Abate to realize that the pharmaceutical profession was not his calling. Instead, he used his experience in laboratories to quickly move up the ladder working at wineries, including Delicato, Bronco and Woodbridge. In 2002, Gianni’s passion for wine brought him to the Central Coast, where he worked as an assistant winemaker for the Robert Mondavi Private Selections brand until he was hired as head winemaker at Morgan Winery in 2005. Founded by Dan and Donna Lee in 1982, Morgan Winery has been a key supporter of the Rhône movement in California over the past two decades. Upon arrival, Abate was introduced to the winery’s philosophy of world-class grapes, low yields, organic farming techniques and minimal intervention in the cellar. “From there, Dan basically handed me a key and said here’s a winery, now go!” says Abate. In the cellar, Abate likes to develop soft, voluptuous tannins and avoids heavy extraction to preserve natural flavors. In addition to crafting the Lee Family Farm Grenache and three flavorful Syrahs made with fruit from the Double L Vineyard, the Fairview Road Ranch and other special vineyards in Monterey County, Abate also has fun time making the Morgan Cotes du Crow’s, a delicious Rhône-style blend. Modeled after French Côtes du Rhône reds, the new 2008 vintage contains 55% Syrah to provide a core of complex fruit flavors, plenty of backbone and ample tannins, and 45% Grenache, which brings additional layers of ripe fruit, structure and an attractive aromatic character. “It’s our version of a food-friendly wine that’s so easy to love!” says Abate. Kinship with the Vines D hen the young Ethan Lindquist launched his signature brand, Ethan Wines, in 2001, his family was very supportive—not surprising when you consider that his father, Bob Lindquist, is a pioneer winemaker who produces Qupé Wines in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties, and that his brother and stepmother have their own labels as well. In the vineyard, Lindquist favors working with specialty clones of Syrah, Grenache and other Rhône varietals planted on rocky soils. A tasty example is the Ethan 2006 Syrah from Block 6 at the Purisima Mountain Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley. Located in Ballard Canyon, the vineyard is farmed biodynamically by Steve and Tom Beckmen and features calcareous sub-soils similar to those found in Côte-Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The big juicy flavors of red and blue fruits, savory spices, white pepper, leather and earth really reflect the true spirit of the vineyard. Rebel with a Cause W “Like the other Rhône varieties, when working with Syrah my goal is to not manipulate the vines and not pick fruit that is too ripe,” said Lindquist, who also works with grapes grown in special vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills, Arroyo Grande, Los Alamos and at his family’s new Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard in Edna Valley. “In a nutshell, the way I make wines is a much more hands-off style, allowing the fruit to speak for itself.” 86 / the tasting panel / july 2010 Gianni Abate, Morgan Winery estiny always has a way of working itself out. Just ask Gianni Abate, a talented young man who grew up on an asparagus farm in the San Ethan Lindquist, Ethan Wines Ethan Lindquist takes the family wine- making tradition further down the roads.