Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/126443
PORT REPORT Here's a look at the major types of port and examples of each. VINTAGE Produced only in exceptional years (traditionally, three times a decade, maximum), using only the inest fruit from that year and bottled as a single vintage, not a blend across several years, as is common in the Douro. Aged in casks for two years, then bottled and aged for another ive to 50 years. Simple or unrewarding when young, growing in complexity and mellowing as they age. "What have we sold the most of, we've had the most success with '83 and '03," says Chris Adams of SherryLehmann. "They're not all that expensive relative to what you would typically expect to pay for a great bottle of wine." As to the most recently declared vintage: "Vintage '09 was a warm year," says Robert Bower. Despite the narrow harvest window, the'09s are showing "great acidity and balance. Not labby at all." Best-selling vintage wines at Sherry-Lehmann: PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG Warre's 1983 Vintage Port Assertive violet and berry aromatics. Fullbodied. Sweet berry fruit and herbal notes on the palate. Medium inish. Croft 2009 Vintage Port Blueberry and plum on the nose, a touch of eucalyptus and tobacco. Mediumbodied, silky tannins and moderate acidity framing cassis, berries and spice. Acidity lifts the jammy inish. Best 2020 through 2050. Fonseca 2009 Vintage Port On the nose, ig, plum, spice and a touch of smoke. Full-bodied in the mouth. Grippy tannins around dark fruit, chocolate and ig. Tannins persist on the long, jammy inish. Best 2016 to 2038. A blend of relatively lighter wines from several recent vintages; less dense, less intense, simpler, fruity wines. Best-selling ruby at Sherry-Lehmann: Fonseca Bin No. 27 Vintage Character Cherry, smoke and a hint of spice on the nose. The wine is rich, powerful, lush, earthy and fruity on the palate, with spice and mocha accents. A streak of acidity enlivens the fruit, and there is heat on the inish. 96 / the tasting panel / may 2013 Single-vintage, often from a single vineyard. Aged in casks for about four years before being bottled. More mellow from the cask aging but retaining the youthful vibrancy, fruit and color of a young vintage port. The less expensive alternative to vintage. Robert Bower of the Fladgate Partnership tries to simplify styles, as even professionals in retail and on premise can have trouble untangling the complexities of this category. He likes to say, "LBV for complexity, reserves for intensity. If you want something with a bit more breadth of lavor, you drink late bottled vintage." Best-selling LBVs at Sherry-Lehmann: Taylor 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port Black currant and plum on the nose is followed on the palate. Tannins are silky and help frame the chocolate and ig notes. Dow's 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port Cassis, dark fruits and spice on the nose. The currant note continues on the full-bodied palate, joining berry fruits and chocolate. Long inish, medium dry. PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG RUBY LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE (LBV)