Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1256324
30 • THE ARTISAN SUMMER 2018 Hollywood is bright, optimistic, stylish, and precise in its execution of all things glamour. The costumes are breathtak- ing; designed by Ryan Murphy longtime collaborator and producer/costume designer Lou Eyrich and Sarah Evelyn. The hair designed by Michelle Ceglia is so beautiful and clean; every texture and color has been represented. As the make-up designer (and also producer) on Hollywood, I got to research this time period from another perspective. I've worked on two World War II films and know the signifi- cance of the "Lipstick Era." Red was the color in about three different shades and I get all of our lipsticks from Besame; they stay on well and have been diligently researched by cos- metic historian Gabriela Hernandez. "Go with what the pros know" and you can't go wrong! Every character has a different story, but our main theme was glamour. Even if there was a lot of turmoil going on beneath the surface, the glamour belies the time period and what most people were covering up; post-war traumatic stress, integrating loved ones back into the family fold from being enlisted and returning from overseas, women going back into the home after supporting their families and country for the past six years. These issues were everyday living; people of color, segregation, Jake Picking as Rock Hudson; prosthetics; applying make-up to Patti LuPone. Photos courtesy of Eryn Krueger Mekash gay and lesbian relationships, or sex out of wedlock weren't even being discussed openly at this point. Lipstick had been issued with women's uniforms to "keep up soldier's morale." It's where we get the term, "Put on a little lipstick and you'll be fine." Repression underneath the make-up. This is where we start; precise glamour—not what the Instagram of today considers "vintage look pin-up make- up" but true lived-in everyday beauty and for that, we turn to family photos, yearbooks, and newsreels. We were also fortunate enough to get to recreate actors' looks from films and award celebrations which not only required up to 20 make-up artists to get our 300 background actors ready, but organizing the space for them to work, providing color kits and mood boards for my team. We have such talented Local 706 make-up artists, and everything always went very smoothly. Ryan Murphy wasn't only interested in the glamour of Hollywood; he wanted to get closer to some of the original actors' looks through prosthetics. We delve into a lot of that—the shaping of Hollywood and the shaping of actors in Hollywood. Jake Picking was cast to play Rock Hudson. He has several attributes close to Rock and because Ryan had recently seen pictures from Bombshell, he asked about MAKE-UP Continued from page 29 Photos (left and top right) courtesy of Eryn Krueger Mekash