The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2018

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Page 20 of 96

20  /  the tasting panel  /  october 2018 The Ransom Note is a monthly column by Tasting Panel East Coast Editor David Ransom. Each month, David connects readers with some of the people, products, and events making news along the Eastern Seaboard. story and photos by David Ransom N ow that summer is behind us and fall is in full swing, it's time to focus our attention on wines that complement the heartier fare this season and the next bring to our tables and restaurant menus. In New York, I recently connected with two legendary producers: one from California and the other from Bordeaux in a personal reenactment of the Judgment of Paris. First, during an intimate lunch at Boulud Sud, the Lincoln Center–area Mediterranean bistro by famed chef Daniel Boulud, I got the inside scoop on the wines of Château Angélus from eighth-generation owner and Managing Director Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal. Imported by Millesima USA, Angélus is one of Saint- Émilion's most historic Premier Grand Cru Classe "A" properties, making beautiful wines from its estate plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In an age where Bordeaux has seen so many competitors chip away at its market share, production costs and real estate prices have also skyrocketed, prompting many chateaux to sell to investors. The de Boüard de LaForest family, who founded the estate in 1782, has staunchly resisted that urge as they con- tinue to lead their estate boldly into the future. Next, over dinner at Mastro's Steakhouse with Napa's Judgment of Paris hero Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena, I tried a vertical selection of exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon from Barrett's Calistoga winery. (Founded in 1882, it was pur- chased by Bo's father, Jim Barrett, in 1972.) Poured that evening were Estate Cabernets from 1996, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2015, the current release. Tasting these wines provided further proof that Chateau Montelena contin- ues to live up to the legacy of the historic Paris tasting with its classic Napa Valley bottlings. When inspired to add to the top end of your list for red-wine season this fall, consider these producers. You may find wines that are currently more popular than those from this pair of legends, but you won't find better. Two High-End Wines from Both Sides of the Atlantic Château Angélus owner and Managing Director Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal at Boulud Sud. Chateau Montelena's Bo Barrett with Tasting Panel East Coast Editor David Ransom at Mastro's Steakhouse in New York.

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