Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1025306
september 2018 / the tasting panel / 97 T his May, the Los Angeles Times celebrated Southern California's bustling food and beverage industry with its second annual Food Bowl: a month-long festival featuring activities that run the gamut from pairing dinners, Q&A sessions with acclaimed chefs, film screenings, book signings, and even a hands-on butchery class. Night Market—which ran May 16–20 in Downtown Los Angeles' 12-acre Grand Park—managed to be one of Food Bowl's most approachable events, albeit a massive undertaking: So many vendors participated that the event occupied three city blocks. To the east, the Super Market housed an eclectic collection of cuisine, with Earle's on Crenshaw serving up vegan chili cheese dogs, Hip Hot cooking Sichuan specialties, and Delmy's Pupusas drawing crowds with Chef Ruth Sandoval's Salvadorian stuffed tortillas. It also hosted restaurants for limited engagements, including David Chang's Momofuku and a merry-go-round of heavy hitters from Patina Restaurant Group. A line of local food trucks formed a barrier between the Super Market and the Lantern Garden, which provided a stunning open-air backdrop for the festival's pop-up events, among them the opening-night Filipino Feast, the Donut Party, and the Charity Bake Sale on the final night. Past another line of trucks—where Dang Brother Pizza served up its Boring Cheese and Sexy Pepperoni from a portable, wood-fired oven—was the Food Court. There, market-goers could nosh on plates of whole lobster served on garlic noodles from Lobsterdamus, scoops of globally inspired ice cream flavors from Wanderlust Creamery, and "sexy scrapes of Reading raclette" over locally grown potatoes from Cheezus . . . hopefully not in that order. Maker's Mark and Hornitos Tequila stepped up as the fest's most valuable players on the beverage side, encouraging attendees to participate in hands-on activations like wood-stamping on barrels or crafting custom drink koozies with the help of a local letterer. More importantly, they could get away from the crowd in an adults- only section of the park, where festivalgoers could pick from a selection of cocktails including Juleps, Mules, Palomas, and Margaritas. Of course, no Southern California food showcase would be complete without tacos, which were consumed in spades at Taco Alley (other offerings included tamales, tortas, and plant-based fare from Todo Verde). And for those attendees seeking a reprieve from a heavy food coma, Unique L.A. provided a curated marketplace of locally made goods like artisanal chocolates and jam, while several sound stages with DJs and live bands helped diners dance off the calories. Maybe by the time the third annual Night Market rolls around next May, we'll be able to squeeze into our jeans again. This bright neon sign welcomed Night Market attendees to L.A.'s Grand Park. At Night Market's Filipino Feast, Charles Olalia of Ricebar and Chase and Chad Valencia of Lasa created a meal with ingredients sourced from local farms and gardens. Farmer and artist Britt Browne also led a discussion on urban agriculture. AT NIGHT MARKET, THE L.A. TIMES FOOD BOWL FESTIVAL TRULY HITS ITS STRIDE by Mara Marski photos by Jennifer Johnson