Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/101724
VARIETALS The DESPITE ITS UNDESERVED BAD REPUTATION, GAMAY NOIR IS THE MUSE OF SOME FORWARDTHINKING OREGON WINEMAKERS Grape of Wrath A s many admirers of the Gamay grape well know, there is more to the variety than meets the eye. By nature it ripens early and is ideally suited for growth in cooler climates such as the Loire Valley, Switzerland and Beaujolais. Recently, Gamay has found a new home in Oregon's Willamette Valley, winning over acreage and enthusiasts in the Pinot-centric region as celebrated producers make cru-inspired wines . . . with delicious results. Gamay's obstacles are not inconsequential. To start, it costs as much to farm as Pinot Noir and brings in as little as half the price. Then there's the grape's ill-repute. Bernie Lacrout, founder of WillaKenzie Estate, planted Gamay in 1993 with cru Beaujolais as his muse. For Lacroute, the problem comes not only from Beaujolais Nouveau but also the misuse of the varietal name. "Just like Riesling, which was often given a bad reputation in the U.S., Gamay was produced in California as a cheap wine. In fact, most of the plantings in California were not Gamay, but Valdiguié, a high-yield grape from Southern France." Reputation and costs aside, a steadfast few have given the grape a platform for success. Isabelle Meunier, winemaker for Evening Land Vineyards, works with Gamay vines from the Seven Springs Vineyard planted in 1983. "I had never worked with that grape in the past, so I sought out Dominique's [Lafon of Burgundy's Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Evening Land's consulting winemaker] opinion on how best to capture the spirit of the varietal. We discussed various techniques and he further referred me to his friend in the Beaujolais, Olivier Merlin," said Meunier, who subsequently visited Merlin to discuss winemaking techniques. Meunier makes her Gamay with a traditional whole-cluster method and strives to follow the simple rule of being "true to the varietal, place and time." Doug Tunnell, owner and winemaker at Brickhouse Winery and a leader in Oregon's Gamay Noir movement, believed that Gamay would thrive in the region. "I discovered that our soils—marine sediments loaded with silica—were similar to the soils of the Beaujolais. Soil pH was almost identical and the temperature and rainfall patterns were very closely aligned as well," said Tunnell, noting that Gamay is typically harvested four to seven days later than Pinot and requires much more rigorous crop-thinning. For most, the small production wines now sell out almost instantly upon release. The response has been hard fought and the success well deserved. "We can't keep it in the house! It's taken a number of years of talking to people about Gamay, explaining what the grape is, how it is not Beaujolais Nouveau, how it is not Pinot Noir . . . and simply allowing the wine speak for itself." 52 / the tasting panel / january 2013 story and photos by Jennifer Cossey Brick House Vineyards 2011 Gamay Noir , Ribbon Ridge ($28) Red plum, pomegranate, dried orange flesh, black licorice and clove. Chehalem Winery 2010 Gamay , Noir Ridgecrest Vineyards, Ribbon Ridge ($24) Fig, black plum, dried herbs and red flowers with a smooth yet peppery inish. Division Wine Company 2011 Gamy , Noir Eola-Amity Hills ($20) Dried currant and black cherry with herb notes and savory baking spices Evening Land Vineyards 2011 Gamay Noir Seven Springs , Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills ($25) With notes of brambleberries, ig, truffles and cinnamon stick it is muscular yet elegant. Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Gamay Noir Eola-Amity Hills ($19) , Fresh cranberry, red cherry and violet with undertones of black pepper, earth and herb. WillaKenzie Estate 2010 Gamay , Noir Yamhill-Carlton ($26) Cranberries, red cherries and black pepper with violet and mushroom notes.