The Tasting Panel magazine

January 2013

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Gina Chersevani concocts at her new location inside Hank's Oyster Bar. Taha Ismail is Beverage Director at Bandolero, where tequila and mezcal are his muses. All Aswirl: Eddy Bar Summoning Spirits: Bandolero "Swirling liquors and turbulent mixers" is Gina Chersevani's mantra for her new bar, located inside the third location of D.C. bivalve haven Hank's Oyster Bar. Widely regarded as the District's "Mixtress" for her sublime tipples at EatBar and PS7, Chersevani now holds court behind a sleek, long white bar merging throwback and modern ixtures. The focal point is a carving station; each evening, Eddy Bar uses 200 pounds of freshly carved ice for cocktails, and about 150 pounds of ice per well. "The beneits from the program are the quality of the drinks," touts Chersevani. "The challenge is there is one more thing to do for prep." Ice takes center stage in the "Forgetfully Fernet" ($11), which combines Fernet Branca, Jameson Irish Whiskey, lemon, ginger and mint, served over a mountain of shaved ice. "PT-109" ($10) demonstrates her fascination with effervescent elixirs by combining house made coconut cardamom soda with Bluecoat Gin and citrus; other bubbly beverages like vanilla cream and cranberry are available with or without a spirited addition. Chersevani's Capitol Hill location no doubt inluences her drinks philosophy, which she dubs the "political pirate." "My drink names are clever switches between a presidential story, a pirate's tale, and current trends all blended together with the appropriate seasonal ingredients." The design of this small-plates den, run by Top Chef inalist Mike Isabella, draws its inspiration from Mexico's Day of the Dead holiday; reclaimed metal gates, animal skulls, painted black walls and mismatched furniture comprise the loud, dark and cold elements of its ambiance. A back bar adorned with yellow tiles and mounted crates, and illuminated with LED lights, is the perfect spot to showcase the many varieties of tequila and her smoky, moodier cousin mezcal, skillfully used by Beverage Director Taha Ismail. "They are such unique and lavorful spirits. I especially like to work with añejo and reposado because they have a smoother inish that needs to be highlighted," he says. His "El Dorado" (City of Gold) ($11) shakes up Espolon Reposado Tequila with Cardamaro, St-Germain, lemon and ive spice–infused syrup. The "Jesus Malverde" ($12) mingles Fidencio Mezcal, Hellire Bitters, agave, lime and cilantro, tempered with cucumber. A selection of Margaritas—including one with habanero-infused tequila—is joined by classic cocktails, South American wines and Mexican beers, all of which pair with Isabella's designed-to-be-shared dishes such as suckling pig tacos with apple and habanero mustard ($13) and snapper ceviche with charred mango ($11). january 2013 / the tasting panel / 109

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