Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/101724
ON-PREMISE PATTER History in the Cocktail Making THE SPIRITS [MAKERS] ARE RESTLESS AT MONTEREY'S RESTAURANT 1833 story and photos by John Curley T Bar Manager Mike Lay at Restaurant 1833 in Monterey, CA. After some time in the smoke-filled beaker, the smoke-enhanced liquor is ready to be served. here's something "spirit"-ual going on at Restaurant 1833 in Monterey,CA, and it may or may not have anything to do with the people who have lived (and died) at the historic site. One thing is for sure, though—there are vapors in the air, but they are most deinitely friendly. Mike Lay is the Bar Manager at 1833, and he's brought innovation and invention to the scene. At one time the house, one of the oldest adobes in California, was used as an apothecary, and the medicinal theme has been resurrected on the current cocktail menu. Feeling poorly? Try one of their so-called Elixirs, a Penicillin No. 2 (Tres Agave Reposado, fresh lemon, agave nectar and mezcal loat), or perhaps one of their Pain Killers, a Shiner (Four Roses Bourbon, oloroso sherry, blackberry, fresh lemon, agave and egg white). If all else fails, summon the rolling absinthe cart for tableside service. The names might be lighthearted, but the presentation and lavors are not gimmicky. The medicine being dispensed at 1833 was not always so beneicial. At one time the property was owned by John Stokes, who masqueraded as a pharmacist. At least one person is said to have died from his "medications," and his picture still hangs in the stairway to one of the upstairs dining rooms. The healing waters are far more benign these days. The restaurant boasts a vast wine list (and beautifully appointed storage rooms that guests are encouraged to explore) and an ever-evolving lineup of spirits. "There are some things that we can't take off the menu because people really love them," Lay says. "But every couple of months there will be some new twists that we think people might like." The inspiration for some of the house favorites came at a late-night brainstorming session between Lay and the bar staff. They were enjoying some beverages after work, and Lay theorized that he could soften the bourbon they were pouring, and enrich its complexity, by exposing it to smoke before serving it. So the next day he went to a local head shop (never very far away in Northern California), and now a "cold smoke" vaporizer device sits behind the glowing quartz bar, along with the tubing and beakers that go along with it. There's a mad scientist feel to it all, but the genius shows up nicely in the glass. Lay will load, say, rosemary and chamomile (instead of tobacco or herb) into the vaporizer, and as the smoke is pumped through into a beaker, lovely aromas waft through the room. Heads turn and inquiring glances seem to ask, "What is that?!" Spirits are then added to the beaker, and the result is a little bit of magic, as the vapors infuse the liquor with complexity and tonality. At the far end of the bar, other cocktails are being aged in oak barrels, again to add nuance and interest to longtime favorites. And Lay and his staff make their own ginger, vanilla and simple syrups, plus such other drink modiiers as blackberry sauce and strong-brewed chamomile tea. "We're wont to do some authentic things, and have some fun with them, too" Lay says. The spirits agree. 40 / the tasting panel / january 2013 ReataAd1