Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1013885
august 2018 / the tasting panel / 91 the opportunity to sketch out the menu he would later conceptualize to showcase the wines. After the tasting, I accompanied Hilbert upstairs to see the impressive and immaculate test kitchen where he and Stone develop the dishes for both Maude and Gwen. Four months later in late March, I was at last able to experience the results of this research and planning. The first course on the Rioja menu, entitled "Snacks in the Cellar from the Garden of Venta Moncalvillo," refer- enced one of Rioja's finest restaurants in Daroca de Rioja. The superb Michelin-starred establishment produces many artful dishes from its substantial garden, so Hilbert's lovely homage in turn consisted of "lightly grilled and confited vegetables" in a visually stunning arrangement. The dish was accompanied by the 2015 Plácet Valtomelloso from Palacios Remondo, a crisp and aromatic Viura. Next came yet another brilliant combination: clams steamed in a sofrito with cara cara oranges and paired with the 2016 Ad Libitum, a bright Tempranillo Blanca from Juan Carlos Sancha. The menu continued for seven additional courses, including the penultimate pairing of steak with a dazzling 2013 Tempranillo Predicador Tinto by Benjamin Romeo. It was clear the team had absorbed much of what Rioja had to offer as they authentically conveyed those sensory impressions vividly—and deli- ciously—to their guests. In the wake of Rioja, the follow- ing quarter focused on Burgundy through dishes like escargot in herb butter, prawn bisque, roasted foie gras, and rabbit charcuterie with a splendid array of French cheeses. A stunning selection of Burgundies, both white and red, accompanied the food: Among the highlights were a 2015 Mâcon-Verzé from Leflaive and an amazing 2014 Chambolle-Musigny by Domaine Taupenot-Merme. The current regional theme is California's Central Coast, set to continue through September, while the final quarter of 2018 will feature food and wine from Piedmont in northern Italy. For those interested in a serious and skillfully rendered impression of a specific wine region featuring a menu of carefully curated dishes, it's recommended to make a reservation well in advance. The cost of the menu at Maude, which has two seatings nightly, is usually around $125, and the accompanying wine selection is an additional $125. It's a thoroughly satisfying "special- occasion" experience. During a research trip for Maude's current regional theme, California's Central Coast, the team visited a cultured abalone farm in Goleta. The Central Coast menu is available at the restaurant through September. PHOTO COURTESY OF MAUDE