The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2018

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august 2018  /  the tasting panel  /  81 Domaine Delaporte 2017 Sancerre Chavignol, Loire Valley ($32) The Delaporte family has been established in the Sancerre region since the 17th century. Chalk, crisp pears, and chamomile liven up on the nose in preparation for a vibrant palate. Ultra-lean acidity invokes stone fruit, developing a creaminess by mid-palate. The finish is sublimely fresh with hints of key lime. 93 VINEYARD BRANDS Doña Paula 2018 Rosé of Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($14) With its rosy pink hue and perfumed floral array of roses and violets, this 100% Malbec mesmerizes from the start. Cranberry and fine Herbes de Provence dot the palate as a touch of salinity showcases an incredible acidity. 92 TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Lang & Reed 2017 Chenin Blanc, Napa Valley ($27) Winemaker John Skupny is one of the few remaining Chenin producers in Napa Valley, but Lang & Reed has gained recognition for its world-class profile. This vintage is stunning: Racy aromas and flavors of linen, lanolin, and lychee collide. Butterscotch and floral buttercup notes caress as the crisp, high-wire acidity channels pineapple and cucumber for a briny finish. 95 Cashmere by Cline 2016 Red Blend, California ($15) The texture of this Rhône blend is streamlined with satin-like tannins. Aromas are perfumed with cherry-raspberry and cola, but it's the energetic tone of the wine that's ultimately inspirational. The 62% Mourvèdre keeps things weighty with chocolate-enhanced meatiness; the 16% Grenache uplifts the fruit with a tangy raspberry-salinity and fine acidity; and the 22% Syrah lends a graceful yet black-fruited and peppery appeal. 92 CLINE CELLARS Weingut Magdalenenhof Blümel 2016 Osthofener Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany ($20) Wet stone and white flowers pose an aromatic match in this dry Riesling with searing acidity. Notes of lanolin and gardenia are subtly defined with a backdrop of Meyer lemon and summer peach. It's stainless-steel fermented for 15-plus days. 90 SNARKY AND SPIRITED LLC Stags' Leap Winery 2015 The Investor Red Blend, Napa Valley ($58) Concentrated and spicy, this assemblage of 42% Merlot, 30% Petite Sirah, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Malbec proves highly worthy of your time and enjoyment, with fresh berries prominent on the nose before an echo of grilled meat. Super-silky tannins engage blue floral notes with dark, intense black fruit. 93 TREASURY WINE ESTATES Highlands Forty One 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($20) Riboli Family Wines' latest release is dusky, rich, and savory: It overdelivers in every way with ripe plum, baked cherries, and earthy lavender aromatics. Mountain brush makes for gritty tannins seasoned with black pepper—you can sink your teeth into its plum-and-blackberry depth. Acidity works itself through the dense fleshiness, making for a wonderful food-pairing partner. 93 Charles Smith Wines 2017 Band of Roses Rosé, Washington ($13) The delicate nose exudes peach and wild flow- ers. Minerality comes into play after the first verse with a chorus of Asian pear, chamomile, and apricot. This 100% Pinot Gris goes even more floral on mid-palate with a bloom of lilacs and peach blossom traveling to the beat of a zesty drum. 91 CONSTELLATION BRANDS Echo Bay 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($18) Kiwi winemaker Nick Goldschmidt creates this charmer in a cool, maritime-influenced cli- mate with a long growing season. We've tasted his Sauv Blancs now from around the world, and he's proven he has a way with pulling out the most aromatic tropical notes. This wine opens with lime and white grapefruit aromas but leads to a palate where pineapple finds a home with sweet fig and a hint of grassiness. Sharp acidity has us reaching for more to pair with summer dishes. 93 TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Robert Mondavi Winery 2015 Fumé Blanc, Oakville, Napa Valley ($40) This wine sources widely beloved Sauvignon Blanc fruit from the To Kalon Vineyard, located at the Robert Mondavi Winery headquarters in Oakville. The soils in Napa's top real estate are diverse, containing more 20 types with a gravel base that provides excellent drainage and deep roots. This white is brilliantly crisp with a full produce department worth of fruit: pineapple, mango, peach, and sweet pink grapefruit. It finishes with a release of mineral- kissed tropical fruit. 93 CONSTELLATION BRANDS Farmhouse 2017 White, California ($13) The practice of "beyond-sustainable" farm- ing comes into play with this multi-variety white, which takes its name from the schoolhouse on Green String Farm in Petaluma. The dominant grapes—41% Palomino, 25% Muscat Canelli, and 22% Roussanne—are supplemented with Marsanne, Viognier, and Riesling. The nose is redolent with freshly picked peaches and the 'wow factor' is just getting started. Crisp and clean notes of apricot and peach linger with lemon meringue in this aromatic and clean gem. 92

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