Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1011938
82 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 This perception ended up being yet another myth busted for Meagher as a result of his stay. "I was shocked at the wine quality," he said. "Their rosés have what I call the power of Goldilocks: They're not too light, not too heavy, not super-alcoholic, and not super-delicate. They possess this wonderful spectrum, a wonderful flexibility. You want wines that go with everything? Languedoc's the place." Meagher's love affair with Languedoc rosé began where he got his own start: a bistro-type restaurant where the region "was all over the menu." But no matter the venue or concept, there are several benefits to offering this versatile category. "Wine lists em - brace the Languedoc. It doesn't chew up a ton of your inventory, and there always seem to be good deals out there," said Meagher. This value can be attributed at least in part to the region's size. In fact, the Languedoc produces more rosé than Provence: roughly 1,930,000 hectoliters versus 1,216,000. This is perhaps the final misconception Meagher seeks to debunk: "I want people to stop seeing it as this giant, monolithic wine region," he says. "It takes maybe an hour and a half to drive from Montpelier all the way down to Corbières. The food is amazing and the people will open their cellars to happily share their incredible wine." Meagher says he'd attribute this higher level of quality not just to the sunny personalities of its people, but to its regionality and the thoughtful way the appellation has formed its current boundaries. "The Vin du Languedoc has really fractionalized in a smart way," he explains. "They kept the whole banner of AOC Languedoc but they've allowed its subregions, its crus, to really put forward the best wines they can and to reward those regions that have continued to push forward for quality." Even as a Master Sommelier, Meagher admits the region can sometimes be a bit challenging to summarize. "But that being said, once the world grows into it, I think it's really going to put Languedoc at an advantage against these other emerging value markets. All these other places that are cutting quality just to get wines on the shelf are going to suffer." Its wines clearly prove the Languedoc is a terroir-driven region: Appellations like Fitou, Corbières, Minervois, and Faugères all produce quality rosés reflective of their respective place of origin. "Some of the oldest AOCs/AOPs in France are down around this area. Chateau de Lancyre, which is up in Pic Saint-Loup, is really right up against the Rhône and oftentimes gets lumped into it, so their wines have this wonderful structure and their rosés really are underrated," Meagher says. "Then you look at something down toward Minervois like Château Coupe Roses—there's more limestone and schist and clay soil, so their wines tend to be a little bit more floral and less dense with a lighter body." Whether the rosés are on the crisper or more substantial side, Meagher's visit to the Languedoc has resulted in a refreshing per - spective and perhaps a more realistic, up-to-date assessment of the area. Don't let the weather fool you: As happy and easygoing as its culture may be, the Languedoc's wines are quite serious. A SENSE OF ADVENTURE AT COTE As the author of Drink Pink: A Celebration of Rosé, Victoria James certainly knows the category well, having packed her educated insight on various production methods and favorite producers into the tiny book. Aside from being one of New York's most celebrated sommeliers, James currently runs the wine program at Cote, a posh Korean steakhouse in Manhattan's Flatiron District. James says she pours "one of the best values in the rosé world," the Domaine de Fontsainte, by the glass at Cote. "Because it is from a lesser-known region [Corbières], it doesn't cash in on its big name, so the price is still moderate," James says. "The pro - ducer also isn't trying to chase trends in winemaking and remains traditional and honest." James often relies on the Languedoc not just for value, but for quality as well. "There are so many great wines made today in the Languedoc that fly under the radar. Sadly, the nearby Provence region has ridden the wave of fame and the bulk of the Langued - oc's pink wine has suffered because of this," James laments. "There are many gems from Languedoc, and the vast majority can be Victoria James, Beverage Director at Cote in New York, pours Domaine de Fontsainte by the glass.