Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1011938
{ SOMMjournal.com } 43 s equoia Grove Winery has upped its game. Located on the gravelly soils of the Ruth- erford Bench, one of Napa Valley's premier producers of Cabernet Sauvignon is entering a new chapter. Established in 1979, the family-owned win - ery is driven by a dedicated team of artisans who strive for constant improvement. That passion—paired with significant investments in farming, a new state- of-the-art winemaking facility, and immersive visitor experiences— only adds to the brand's already prestigious reputation for quality. Sequoia Grove also recently welcomed Rick Bonitati, formerly of Paul Hobbs Winery, to help guide the future of the estate as its new President. "We're continuing to elevate quality wherever we can," Bonitati says. In this case, that focus starts in the vineyard. QUALITY OF FRUIT Comes First Over the years, Sequoia Grove has made substantial efforts to advance the vitality of its vines. The original Sequoia Grove estate vineyard, known as the best terroir in the region for growing Cabernet, was replanted in the 1990s, with careful attention given to matching the soil type to the proper rootstock and clone. One of those clones, unidentified at the time, eventually came to be considered Sequoia Grove's "special ingredient": Fondly called the Sequoia Grove Clone, it's now officially known as Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 29. In 2006, the winery secured the Tonella Estate in Rutherford and replanted the 50-acre vineyard with 17 clonal-rootstock combinations. "The combination of a compelling site with the right clones and rootstocks yields the unique flavor characteristics of the terroir," explains Winemaker Molly Hill. From a sensory perspective, clone choice has greater influence over the wine's aromas and flavor profile while the rootstock affects the mouth - feel and texture. This diversity of clonal-rootstock combinations compels Hill to vinify each block separately before carefully blend- ing them to produce elegant, balanced wines. The estates are tended to by Vineyard Manager Jake Terrell, a recognized leader in green viticulture. One of his primary goals for Cabernet Sauvignon is achieving physiological ripeness at bal - anced sugar levels, yielding wines with greater depth of flavor and a lower alcohol content. Terrell works diligently to accomplish this through precise canopy and cover-crop management on a block- by-block basis. For example, in more vigorous areas, he maintains a permanent cover crop that helps mitigate vine vigor by heightening competi - tion and decreasing the available nitrogen. In blocks that need more nitrogen, Terrell includes nitrogen-fixing plants like sweet peas and vetch in the mix. Come May, the cover crop is mowed and quickly tilled into the soil to add nutrients, while every other row maintains a permanent cover crop in a system that's rotated every four years. But what exactly does this approach do for the wine? Terrell explains that a healthy, green canopy will actively ripen the fruit throughout harvest, achieving phenolic ripeness as opposed to the mere increase in sugar levels that occurs when vines begin to lose their leaves and the grapes dry. It's a labor-intensive approach that requires commitment, as it increases short-term costs and can take up to four years to bring results; the vines, however, will be healthier in the long term. With this "holistic vision" to guide them, Terrell says, Sequoia Grove can "really can farm the way we should be farming." IN THE WINERY: Temperature and Time Hill is known for her skillful touch and attention to detail in the cellar. She joined Sequoia Grove in 2003 as an Assistant Wine- maker, and after proving her skill and expertise in the vineyards and cellar, Hill was later promoted to Winemaker in 2008. For Hill, temperature and time are the two most significant winemaking tools available: Key decisions include how cool or how hot the fermentation should be, how long it should take, and how much time the fruit should spend on the skins. In the new winemaking facility, she has the space and equipment—including a multitude of tanks in varying sizes along with automatic pump- overs—to execute her tasks more efficiently and address the needs of each lot without feeling pressured to make room for the next incoming pick. Regarding fermentation temperature, Hill says she takes a lot-by-lot approach. "I don't have one overarching style," she continues. "For me, it's based on the feeling of the vintage and the feeling of what we're trying to express from the site." Over the years, Hill has experimented with various oak sources PHOTO: JEREMY BALL Sequoia Grove Winemaker Molly Hill in the winery's Tonella Estate vineyard.